I know people are trying to help but this is ridiculous! A majority of the people out there are paying for speeds they are not receiving and don't know it. Plus the ones that do are asked to "jump through hoops" in hopes of trying to find a problem on their end. If a utility or business can not provide a service for which they claim they can refunds should be given to the consumer. It is simple as that. If I buy a car and I am told and given printed documentation that is has 300 horse power it better not have 100 horse power or legal action will follow.{please keep it relevant}
Well, I'd have to agree with you, John. I've had Verizon for a few years and never really had a problem until about 5-6 months ago. I haven't received any information at all from Verizon regarding these issues such as traffic or whatever it may be. I used to get 6-7 Mbs and am now only getting 1 Mb at best. $42.00 for 1 mb isn't very fun. That and lately my connection has been dropping like mad. Makes it impossible for gaming or anything at all. If this continues by the time my contract is up, I'm going to have to switch providers.
Ok.
This a trouble shooting step that you could do...
Bypass the router.
#1 A software firewall must be installed and enabled for your computer.
#2 I would not recommending doing this test when other people at your location want to have Intenet Access, so the next step after making sure there is a software installed and enabled on your computer, before doing anything else is finding the time to do this 24 hour test.
---
If in the Linksys at Staus -> Router if the connection type is PPPoE, example...
#1 In the router at Staus -> Router press disconnect
#2 Disconnect the router from the modem.
#3 Disconnect a computer from behind the router.
#4 Connect that computer to the modem.
#5 Setup a PPPoE Client on that computer.
This means following the directions at
a)
http://support.microsoft.com/kb/283070
if using Windows XP.
b) http://windows.microsoft.com/en-US/windows-vista/Create-a-PPPoE-connection-to-the-Internet
If using Windows Vista OR Windows 7.
#6 Use the PPPoE client on your computer.
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If in the Linksys at Staus -> Router if the connection type is Static IP, example...
#1 Disconnect the router from the modem.
#2 Disconnect a computer from behind the router.
#3 Connect that computer to the modem.
#4 Setup the Static IP, Subnet Mask, Default Gateway that you were assigned by Verizon.
For example I was assinged IP Address that starts with 71.242 with the Subnet Mask of 255.255.255.0, and the Default Gateway that starts with 71.242
#5 Setup at least two DNS Servers, for your computer to use.
--
If in the Linksys at Staus -> Router if the connection type is DHCP, example...
#1 Press the release button in the router at Staus -> Router
#2 Disconnect the router from the modem.
#3 Release the IP Address of your computer.
For example if on Windows XP
a) Go to Start -> Run.
b) Type in cmd and press enter.
c) In the new window, called the command prompt, type in ipconfig /release and press enter.
#4 Disconnect a computer from behind the router.
#5 Connect that computer to the modem.
#6 Renew the IP Address of your computer.
At the command prompt, type in ipconfig /renew and press enter.
----
When done with the testing,,,
#1 If your connection type is PPPoE OR Static IP, have the router handle the PPPoE or Static IP.
#2 If the connecton type is DHCP:
a) Release the IP Address on your computer, before disconnecting your computer from the modem.
b) Renew the IP Address in the router, as need be.
#3 Please report back if the connection is the same or does it improve.
Another trouble shooting step that you could do, if don't have only computers connected wireless to the router, is to turn off wireless for at least 24 hours.
When done with the test, reporting your findings.
This will only tell if the wireless of your router is limiting your speed. It will not test how fast the connection the router, can handle.
As what I meant by
It will not test how fast the connection the router, can handle.
For an example I point to:
http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/lanwan/lanwan-basics/30318-how-to-choose-the-right-router-for-you
I know when that article was published, but still it has important info in it.
Current router chart is at
http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/component/option,com_chart/Itemid,189/
--
As what I meant by
This will only tell if the wireless of your router is limiting your speed
If you haven't heard/read, WEP has been hacked so badly that it can broken into in about 1 to 2 minutes.
Source: http://www.grc.com/sn/sn-089.htm
dslr595148,
I'll give it a go to take the router out of the loop, but I'm not sure Verizon will let me do that. In order to get the router working originally, I had to clone my PC's MAC address onto the router. That PC went away a long time ago, so I made sure to record my router settings, just in case it ever dies on me. So unless you know how I can clone the MAC address onto my current laptop, or you know how I can get around the MAC restriction, I can't take the router out of the loop. I did connect directly to the router, though, and turned off wireless, but saw no performance difference. I understand that Verizon does things a bit differently between east coast and west coast; I'm in SoCal, and have my router set up as DHCP, if it makes a difference.
I tried reading your article on WEP security, but unfortunately I found it completely unreadable. But, yeah, if God and Steve Gibson say it must feel good to help others who drive me nuts when they don't make backups, then, like, it must be cool. Yeah! So I'll have to google it, and if I find out you're onto something, I'll make some security changes.
Keep the tips coming. I'll post my findings as I make 'em.
Thanks,
Joseph
dslr595148,
Just read up on WEP vs WPA vs WPA2 security settings. While far from being a pro, I did follow your advice and updated to WPA2. Not as hard as I was expecting, actually, although now I'll have to read up on AES vs TKIP (always something). Thanks for the tip!
Still working on taking the router out of the loop. Long day, so it will have to wait for tomorrow.
WPA2-AES would be what you want. TKIP is used mainly with WPA.
Actually, I agree; I think WPA2-AES is what I want. From my (limited) reading, WPA2-TKIP has some security issues, some of them being carry-overs from WEP. My PCs (one Win7, one WinXP) both let me choose WPA2 Personal. What the heck does THAT mean?!? Can I set WPA2-AES on my wireless router, and still set WPA2 Personal on my PCs? Will that give me the security I want, and still allow me to access my own network? Yeah, I know, newbie question, but I'm starting to reach beyond my knowledge base (WEP was fine until I was told otherwise). More testing tomorrow ...
Thanks,
Joseph
As a side note, I think it's a bit amusing that this started as a throughput thread, and has moved over to wireless security. Infinitely fascinating to me (thanks to all the security feedback, by the way), but for those who are monitoring the thread, we do need to get back on topic. I know, the thought was that someone was tapping into my wireless network and stealing my bandwidth, but that's not happening anymore, right? Right?!?
Okay, I was able to connect directly to mi NID and run some tests. With my house wiring, I got:
Noise Margin: N/A 12.5
Output Power: N/A N/A
Attenuation: N/A 25.0
Data Rate: 864 7616
With the direct connection, I got:
Noise Margin: N/A 13.5
Output Power: N/A N/A
Attenuation: N/A 23.5
Data Rate: 864 7616
So, a bit higher noise margin, and a bit lower attenuation, when I connected directly to the NID. I then ran a speed test and got the following with my house wiring:
Download: 1.24mbps
Upload: 0.73mbps
Ping: 48ms
With the direct connect, I got:
Download: 1.10mbps
Upload: 0.73mbps
Ping: 47ms
I've found that the speed tests tend to vary from test to test, so even though I saw a decrease when I connected directly to my NID, the bottom line is that there is no real difference in the speed tests. I'd have to do a lot more testing to get any real averaging for the two. I will say that I'm not going to see a significant difference if I put in a POTS splitter in my NID and rewire the house, though. Bummer.
I still need to take my router out of the loop, so that will be my next step.
Start a new topic or ask questions in the open forum.
